Training Archives

Cycling In Winter

Posted on April 28, 2012 by

It can be very hard for some people to convince themselves to get out on the bike in the cooler weather. With a little planning and consideration for the elements, the shorter days don’t have to be a barrier to achieving the fantastic benefits of cycling. Some ideas to help out include the following taken from: http://www.icebike.org/ If these people can do it in snow and ice then we surely can brave a little wind chill.

Layering

Layering is a outdoor clothing strategy that is probably already familiar to you, using layers of clothing that can be added and subtracted as the temperature and your activity change.

One Shot

The problem with Layering in Winter Cycling is that it just doesn’t work very well. Many cyclists on the report that they just don’t use the layering method at all. Some are loath to stop and change layers because it is often the under layers that must be changed, seldom the top layer. If you are getting too warm, you will still want your wind proof layer (the top layer), so what you have to do is remove that, then remove one of the under layers, find some place to stash it, then get back on the bike and get moving before you get too cold.

Read The Weather

I’m not about to suggest you enrol in a meteorology class, but there is a great deal to be said for just paying attention to what works for you. If one ride is too cold, learn to think of what you wore as something that need the assistance of another layer. This almost implies that you will make a few mistakes along the way, and over dress or under dress a few times till you get it all figured out. Clothing you might consider when the temperature gets below 10 degrees: Thermal undergarment, additional pair of knicks, polyprop ear warmer (doesn’t have to cover your whole head), booties for your feet, wind stopper gloves, wind proof vest, arm and leg warmers.

Wicking Fabrics

One of the great boons to winter cycling, especially below freezing temperature, is the advent of wicking fabric (polypropylene). Sold under various trade names (Thermals, Capilene, Thermax, etc) these are usually a blend of polyester and perhaps up to 10 percent lycra thrown in for fit. With these fabrics it is not unusual to go out for a fast ride on a very cold day and have your outer layer be wet (not from rain) but the layer next to your skin be quite dry. The polyester fabric wicks the moisture to outer layers where it condenses. The important thing is that you are warm and dry.

What to Avoid

The general advice is to avoid cotton next to the skin.  Avoid over dressing. Start out a little cold.

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Riding in a Bunch

Posted on April 28, 2005 by

Riding in a bunch is great fun: time seems to go much faster and there are plenty of other riders to chat to about the pitfalls of the beginner cyclist.

Riding in a bunch however can be a harrowing experience for the beginner cyclist so here are some tips which should make your transition into the peleton (bunch) a smooth one…

  • Don’t slam on the brakes! Try and look ahead as much as possible (just like in a car) and predict when you’ll have to slow down and apply the brakes gradually. Also look and listen for cyclists ahead who have stopped pedalling. This is your cue to do the same – often the rolling resistance is enough to slow you down without needing to apply the brakes. There are no brake lights on bikes and we don’t follow the 2 second rule so you have to help each other out.
  • Ride directly behind the wheel in front. Try not to overlap the wheel in front or ride too far to one side. If the rider in front has to swerve and your front wheel is over their rear wheel it could be interesting.
  • Keep a close following distance. Start by sitting 60 cm (2 feet) behind the wheel in front and gradually lessen that distance. An experienced rider will be able to sit a few cm (an inch or two) behind the rider in front without too many problems.
  • Ride consistently. Try and avoid making any sudden movements. When getting out of the seat to climb a hill, try not to throw the rear wheel backwards into the rider behind you.
  • Point out the pot holes, sticks, gravel, wombats etc. When you see a pot hole, broken glass, or other hazard, warn the cyclists behind you by moving round it and pointing to it. Using your voice alone is not enough.

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Riding and Training

Posted on April 28, 2005 by

Spinning. You’ll notice cyclists talk about cadence and spinning. This refers to the number of pedal revolutions per minute, or cadence. Try and maintain a cadence of 90-100 rpm on flat terrain and don’t let it drop below 75 rpm on hills A cadence monitor makes this very easy or count for 15 seconds and multiply by four.

Try and focus on pedalling as smoothly as possible. To do this concentrate on a few things:

  • Don’t stamp on the pedals; rather push the downward leg through the entire movement and pull with the upward leg. Concentrate on eliminating the dead spots of the pedal stroke at
  • 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock by imagine your leg kicking outwards at 12 o’clock and wiping your foot at 6 o’clock . Hold your upper body firm with your core (abdominal muscles) so as your legs have something to push against.

Build your training up slowly. Increase your distance incrementally by about 10-15% per week. Doing it this way will enable your body to recover and adapt from each training session and thus harness the gains you have attempted to make.

If you miss a session then don’t go out and do double tomorrow or think that it’s time to throw in the towel. The best procedure is to take it as an extra rest day and resume the programme the following day. It happens to all of us, sometimes schedules don’t dictate that training will be done that day, the weather’s abysmal, or you’re just too tired. Relax, and make the most of a bonus day!

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Bike Maintenance

Posted on April 28, 2005 by

There are three basic things you need to do – clean , lube , and check .

Clean your bike when it is dirty. Although it is good to clean your bike because a clean bike looks nicer, dirt can cause corrosion and wear on the moving parts of a bike, especially the chain. Do not use high-pressure washers though, bike bearings are not made to withstand high pressures and so the bearings will get damaged.

Lube . After cleaning the bike, you should always lubricate it. The parts to lube are the front and rear brake pivots, brake lever pivots, rear mech jockey wheel, rear mech pivots, front mech pivots, cable ends, and the chain. If you are not sure what these parts of the bike are, it is anything that moves apart from the wheel bearings themselves.

Check your bike to make sure nothing is loose. Make sure that the pedals and their cranks do not move too much when you try to pull them from side to side. Check also the saddle is still tightly fitted and will not twist. Lift the front and then the rear of the bike and spin each wheel. Watch it as it turns to make sure it does not wobble or move from side to side. Also make sure that the brakes do not rub on the side of the wheel rim. If a repair or adjustment needs doing that you are not confident to do yourself, either find someone who you can trust to do the job properly, or take it to your local bike shop.

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Clipless Pedals

Posted on April 28, 2005 by

The normal pedal is just flat without any straps or anything else on it.  Some pedals have a toe-clip which holds your foot in place on the pedal. It can either be just a simple clip which your foot fits in to, or it may also have straps which go round your foot and the pedal. When the strap is tightened up, you cannot get your foot off the pedal until you loosen the strap. Clipless pedals have a mechanism in the pedal which locks into a special plate or cleat fitted into the underside of a cycling shoe and to get out you merely rotate your foot to the side (push your heel outwards).
So why use a pedal like this?

It is because more of your effort gets transferred into making the bike move. It may seem strange, but you will not only use the pedal by pushing, but you will learn to also pull the pedal as you lift your foot up! It sounds hard to do, but is something that you will eventually do without thinking.

Must you use clipless pedals? – No , but if you start to do quite a lot of cycling, will it be a good thing to try? – Yes .

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